Switches and Receptacles – A Very Short Overview
Switches and receptacles in an RV can be likened to a power network a dedicated RVer needs to take care of. One of the most important benefits (and one of the major uses) of an RV is to bring lights and appliances to work while you’re using it.
If the system fails, you’d have power outage. Your RV can maybe run (it has its own motor) but the appliances and the things inside cannot work anymore. As the owner, your main work is to make sure your supply of power through your switches and in your outlets is fitted to your preferences.
Suppliers can have selections of switches that can customize the interior of your RV, mostly for function. However, the receptacles (that house your outlets) can also be made special in that it won’t detract the aesthetics of your RV interiors.
Electricity in the RV
In high school electricity, the power you want in your RV is in wattage, the overall power (calculated in amperes multiplied by voltage). As long as you are within the amount of available wattage for your RV, your circuits will run. If it exceeds, it will trip the circuit and won’t run.
The RV has a 120-volt electrical system and also runs on 12-volts powered by a battery (or a set of batteries). It powers in turn the refrigerator, the water pump, the furnace, water heater, and most of the lights and some others.
The generator (or an RV electrical hookup) powers up the 120-volt system. In turn it powers up such items as your TV, your kitchen appliances, and the other electrical appliances in the RV.
The 120 volt system is powered by an RV electrical hookup plug or a generator, and it powers for daily use such items as kitchen appliances, your TV, and other electrical appliances.
If you add an inverter to the system, it will convert the 12-volt battery’s direct current (DC) into a 120-volt alternating current (AC). You can then power up appliances that needs 120 volts and use the electrical outlets of your vehicle. The battery will eventually run out of juice and needs to be recharged.
If your RV is plugged into a campground power source, your 12-volt battery automatically charges. If you are dry camping (boon-docking) and not plugged in, the battery is still usable to run anything that runs on 12 volts.
All these will be working off in your switches and outlets. Overuse or faults (surges) in electricity can make these useless.
RV Switch and Receptacle Maintenance
Sockets and switches that are really dirty (and are outdated) need to be replaced immediately. You can have them replaced with the modern metal coated switches and receptacles (for the sockets). You can also choose to install those new water and dust-resistant switches for better life-span.
Especially aimed for newbie RV owners, be sure to cut off all the power on your RV before plugging it in to a campground site for your power. (You can test the hook up first with a polarity tester before connecting with their system.) This ensures your switches and receptacles and your electrical system are protected.